Whether You Are Backpacking or Just Out Getting Some Work Done, the Importance of Staying Hydrated Makes All the Difference to Your Health

Story by Dana Benner, Photos by Dana Benner, Joshua Swanagon and Tanner Swanagon

When I was in the army our hydration options were limited to one-quart canteens. We quickly learned the importance of staying hydrated and carrying more than the one you were issued as part of your basic gear.

Today there are plenty of options available to the hiker, hunter and angler. The top option being hydration packs that slip into your backpack. Despite this, I often see people hitting the trail with only one small 16-ounce plastic water bottle. This will not be enough.

How Long Will You Last?

Dehydration is a silent enemy that sneaks up on you, without you realizing it, until it is too late. Way too many people only drink when they are thirsty. What they don’t realize is that your body doesn’t indicate it is thirsty until it is in real need of water. It is like waiting for the fuel light on your vehicle to come on before filling your tank.

Dehydration leads to decreased mental and motor skills; two things that are vital in a wilderness situation. The resulting muscle cramps, dizziness and lack of clear thinking can lead to wrong decisions—which can prove fatal.

The human body can go about 21 days without food, but only three days without water. However, you cannot go strong for three days without water, the effects of dehydration will begin to set in quickly. For this reason, it is very important to carry plenty of water and drink often. Coffee, soda and alcohol are not suitable alternatives, as they will dehydrate you even faster.

If you are one of those people who only drink flavored water, there are plenty of powdered additives available. The ones I really like are Rapid Hydration Mix, from Honey Stinger. They not only provide flavoring, but also other additives that the body needs. The packets are small, light and easy to carry in your shirt pocket or the pockets on your pack.

What I Carry

My water load depends on my planned activity, where I will be and how I will get there. If I am running a chainsaw on a friend’s woodlot, there is a good chance I got there by truck. That being the case, a five-gallon water container will be in the vehicle, as well as a canteen or two in my pack.

Whereas, while day hiking with my dog and family, each person carries a few bottles, or canteens, full of water. I carry extra water for the dog, as well.

When it comes to long, serious hikes or hunting, I carry a 5.11 Tactical WTS Wide 3L Hydration System in my pack. Like all hydration bladders, the WTS has a tube that allows you to constantly drink while on the move. The bladder holds 3 Liters (100 ounces); plenty more than a few canteens and much easier to carry.

When What You Have is not Enough

When it comes to water there just never seems to be enough. Whether I’m out hunting, fishing or just for a hike with my family, I never return with extra water. So, what do you do if you find yourself out of water and there are still miles to go? What happens if you find yourself unexpectedly forced to hunker down for the night? You will need water.

Although there are formulas for determining the proper amount of water intake, there are some general rules you can follow. Men should take in an average of 104 ounces per day and women should take in 72 ounces. If you are involved in strenuous activity (shelter building, firewood processing, etc.) add an extra 12 ounces of water for every thirty minutes.

Before you head to a nearby stream to fill your hydration bag, canteen or bottle, you need to realize that all such water will need to be boiled, chemically treated or filtered before you drink it. You have no idea what is in that water. Pathogens found in water can make you very sick or even kill you. Do not take the risk. Just because the water may be clear doesn’t mean it is safe.

While chemicals and boiling are always solid options, I prefer to use water filtering systems. There are good ones out there, as well as some not so good ones. There are two I really like, the Sawyer Mini and the Lifesaver Liberty. Both eliminate most of the natural bad things, as well as any chemicals, that may be in the water.

Dehydration

I have mentioned dehydration multiple times in the article, so I should mention just what dehydration is. It is important to know how to recognize it and how to treat it. Simply put, dehydration happens when more fluids leave your body than are taken in. We expel water constantly; so the key is to continually take water in.

Detecting the problem is key. Early signs include lethargy and dizziness. Dark urine or decreased urination are also signs. More advanced stages include dry skin, low blood pressure, increased heart rate, lack of sweating and fever. If not detected early, and corrected, dehydration can lead to organ problems, heat related issues (heat exhaustion or heat stroke) and even death.

To treat dehydration is as simple as replenishing lost bodily fluids. Stick to clear fluids like water, clear broths, ice cubes, sports drinks or water additives that have those extra things your body needs. Make sure to take in fluids slowly at first. Gulping water may induce vomiting which will only dehydrate you even more.

Above all else, stay away from coffee, tea, soda and alcohol—all of which will add to your problems.

Proper Planning Will Help You Stay Hydrated

By far more people succumb to the various stages of dehydration in the field than any other potential injury. While twisted ankles, broken bones and insect stings can be avoided, they can’t always be prevented. Dehydration is a different story. You can easily prevent it with just some careful planning.

Have fun, stay safe and stay alive. K&G

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Tips and Considerations for Picking Your First Knife

Story and Photos by Dana Benner

There are hundreds of articles written every year about knives, by some of the very best writers in the business. While the knives they write about are the best of the best, much of the information being put forth is too much for some beginners to comprehend.

As writers we often talk about high carbon steel, serrated blades, folders and fixed blades. We also talk about bush knives, machetes and more. But what does all of that mean? It can all be a bit overwhelming to a person new to the outdoors.

This article is designed for those out there who are just getting started in hiking, camping, trapping, fishing and hunting. All of these pursuits require you to get back to the basics—to include knives.

Every Adventure Starts with a First Step

It can be argued that a good knife is the most valuable tool that an outdoorsperson can carry. A knife will allow you to process food, build shelter and start a fire. The list could go on and on. For that reason, I believe that a good quality knife should be the first investment you make.

Gear for the outdoors can be expensive, but don’t cheap out when it comes to your knife. When other gear breaks and wears out, a good knife will last you a lifetime. I have both fixed-blade and folding knives and each one has specific jobs.

What Knife to Start With

I’m a big fan of the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) method. Fancy doesn’t cut it in the outdoors. I want a knife that is a no frills work tool. It doesn’t matter to me the brand, as long as it does the job—and then some—and can take, and keep, an edge. A dull knife is a dangerous knife. I want a knife that I can depend on to possibly save my life. So should you.

The next question is “Do you need a fixed-blade or a folder?” The simple answer is “yes.” I recommend both, as each has their place in your gear.

Folders

When I was growing up, some 60 odd years ago, every kid carried a pocketknife (folder), and I still do. Folders in general are easy to carry and are there when you need them.

The problem with traditional pocketknives is that when the blade was open, it never was truly locked into place. This meant it could be easily closed using the heal of your hand, which was never an issue unless your fingers were in the way. Take it from someone who has been there and done that, a blade closing on your fingers is never fun.

One of my favorite folding knives is the Victorinox Swiss Army Knife. I have had this knife for over 20 years, and it is one of the older styles of folding knives—the ones without the blade lock. Like many Swiss Army Knives, this particular knife has a ton of other tools.

The good news is that most modern folders have locking blades, which means they are designed not to close unless you press the lock release. When you purchase a folder for the first time make sure it has a locking blade. By far most of my folding knives have locking mechanisms.

My three favorites all happen to be American made by Gerber (I mention this because not all Gerber knives are made in America). Those knives are the Gator Drop Point, Fastball and Sharkbelly. The Fastball and Sharkbelly, while small enough to fit into your pocket, come with pocket clips. The Gator Drop Point is a bit larger and is carried in a nylon belt sheath.

While folders can do many things, there are some chores that they are not designed to do; one of which is batoning wood for a fire. The blades—and locking mechanism—of many folders are not “beefy” enough to take the beating.

This is where a good, fixed blade comes into play.

Fixed Blade Knives

As with folders, there are a multitude of fixed-blade knives on the market. Many are specialty knives such as fillet knives, skinning knives, combat related knives, etc. Your first fixed-blade knife should be a knife capable of doing many jobs well; not just one job perfectly.

Many first timers get caught up in the “bigger is better” way of thinking and end up purchasing more knife than they really need. If you mainly hike established trails, there really is no need to carry a heavy bush knife. On that same type of trail, a smaller knife—that is easier to handle—will normally fit the bill. A good one can easily help you gather the supplies to make a hasty splint, gather material for an emergency shelter or be batoned to split small pieces of wood for a fire.

When picking a “first time” fixed-blade knife don’t focus on brands. I recommend looking for two things; the thickness of the blade’s spine and the knife’s ability to take, and hold, an edge. I also tend to shy away from stainless steel as I have found that stainless is hard to keep sharp.

Of the fixed-blade knives that I have there is one that I would highly recommend to the first timer. That knife is the Next Gen, made by LT Wright. This is a great all-purpose fixed-blade knife, that is light and easy to use and fully capable of most chores found along the trail. It also has its place in the camp kitchen, processing small game and fish, and is capable of cutting cordage and batoning small pieces of wood for the fire.

Style vs. Function

While the style of the knife is not as important to me as its functionality, it is important to get the right one for the job. All knives will clean a fish, but if you want to fillet it, then you need a knife that is made for that job. The same goes for hunting and work around camp.

Remember the K.I.S.S. method. Your first knife should be one that can accomplish most of the jobs you are likely to face. Will it do all things equally well? Of course not, but it will do all things well enough to get you out of trouble.

It Should Fit Your Needs and Your Budget

It is impossible to provide you with all the information you will need in one small article. Often getting the right outdoor gear—including knives—is a trial-and-error process. My goal here was to give you some pointers that will help you find the right knife for you. Over the years I have gone through many knives, before I settled on the ones I use today.

Remember to get the very best knife that fits your needs and your budget. Money spent now will pay off in the long run. No matter what you do in the outdoors, your knife is the one constant, so make sure you get a good one. K&G

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Connecting to the Past Through Modern Restoration

Story and Photos by Dana Benner

A few months ago, prior to the lockdown caused by the pandemic, my friend Stan asked me to take a look at an old knife that he had found while doing some renovations on his house. He wasn’t sure what he had found, so he asked me to take a look at it. If nothing else, Stan wanted to know if I could bring the old blade back to working condition. 

Before I committed to anything, I needed to take a good look at the knife.

A Piece of History

The knife that was handed to me was truly unique. It has an overall length of 18 inches, with the blade measuring 12 inches. The width of the spine is 1/16^th inch. The handle is made of hardwood and is in good shape, though it does show signs of constant use. This knife is heavy, weighing 10 ounces (I weighed it twice to make sure I was reading it correctly).

My first thought was that this was a homemade knife, but to make sure I searched all over for any maker’s marks. I didn’t find any, so there is a good bet that my first hunch was correct. 

Whoever made this knife did a good job. The blade is extremely straight and seemed to be made from a piece of plate steel (a common material found on rural farms of the early 1900s). The tip of the blade was cut at a downward sloping angle – which tells me that the knife was a chopper. 

With its weight and design, my thoughts were leaning towards this knife being some sort of machete, although the handle design didn’t fit the bill. Like the rest of the knife, the handle was handmade, but its design was more like a kitchen knife than that of a machete. Now I was perplexed.

The Damage

The blade did have some rust, which I would expect, but it was not as bad as some knives that I have worked on. Further inspection did reveal some very minor damage, but not the damage I normally see when a knife is used for field work. Instead the damage was consistent with a knife used to butcher animals around the homestead. The small nicks in the blade were consistent with it coming into contact with bone. So, I asked Stan to tell me exactly where he had found the knife. 

Stan’s home is an old farmhouse and while he was doing some work on the inside, near where the kitchen is, he found the knife tucked into the wall. Now my interest was really peaked. How did this knife get there and why? What was it used for? 

I pulled the knife off the shelf and held it – feeling its weight and balance. Its worn handle fit perfectly in my hand. The project became more than just restoring a knife, there was a story to be told here.

The Mystery

My first two questions were pretty easy to figure out. In many old homes the walls were finished bit by bit, when money and supplies were available. Often the spaces between the wall studs were used to store things. That is probably what happened here, the knife was simply forgotten when the wall was finally finished. 

To answer the third question, and to find out more, I needed to start digging into the history of the house. 

Stan and his wife bought the house back in 1976 from the estate of the original owners. The property, on which the house was built in 1929, was once a good-sized working farm where crops were grown, and livestock was raised. Today there is little left of the original farmland. 

The original family consisted of 11 people – nine children and the parents. Attached to the back of the house was an addition that served as the kitchen for the growing family. This also happens to be where the modern kitchen is today and the general area where the knife was found. 

“If something broke, you fixed it. If you needed a tool, you made it.”

Beneath the kitchen was a root cellar, which had been incorporated into the overall basement by the time Stan bought the home. Despite this, in the area of the basement under the kitchen – where the old root cellar was – Stan found very old canning jars and wooden storage bins that were once used to store root crops like carrots, potatoes and turnips. 

While a farmhouse built in the 1920s doesn’t normally generate much romantic nostalgia, we need to look at the time period that this house – and knife – represents. This was the time of the Great Depression; an era when a great many Americans were out of work and the lines at soup kitchens stretched for blocks. America was at its lowest.

Families in the 1920s, particularly rural families, had to make do with what they had. There was no jumping in the car and heading to the store when you needed something. There was no such thing as “extra money”, unemployment or welfare checks. If something broke, you fixed it. If you needed a tool, you made it. When your family’s very lives depended on what you could harvest from the land, you needed to be creative. 

In this particular case a large sturdy knife was needed to dispatch chickens and other fowl, as well as butchering and cutting meat. There was a need and the tool was made.

Restoration

This knife became a special project and was more than just a sharpening job. My goal was to bring this knife back to working condition, while at the same time preserving the history, and honoring the people who made it. The dirt and grime that comes with age and use needed to be preserved. For that reason, all of the work would be done by hand. 

My implements would be stainless-steel wool scrub pads, 100-200 grit sandpaper and various sharpening stones.

Step 1: Remove the Rust

Seeing that this knife had been left in the walls of the home for so many years and not exposed to the elements, most of the rust was just surface rust that could be removed using the stainless-steel pads. There were some areas where the rust was a bit deeper, especially near the handle. Knowing from experience, this area is where blood tends to gather and thus would account for the rust. In these areas I carefully used the sandpaper. 

If this had been a blade of great historical importance, I never would have used sandpaper. No matter how fine the sandpaper is, it will always leave marks. In this case, where the blade was historically a working knife, the minor scratches left by the sandpaper would have no negative effect.

My first step was to really see how deep the rust went. I worked the steel pad over the entire length of the blade, from hilt to tip. My first assumption was correct; it was mostly surface rust, with deeper pockets near the hilt. 

I moved on to 200 grit sandpaper. The larger the number the smaller the grit and the smaller the scratches. Normally I like to run the paper lengthwise down the blade, but because of the location of the rust, that was not going to be possible. The 200 grit took care of most of the heavy rust, though it did leave some scratches in the process. I decided not to use the 100 grit as it would only do more damage to the blade. 

From here I turned back to the steel pad. While steel wool works fine, a stainless-steel pad is what I like to use. This is because they hold up better than standard steel wool. An added benefit is that they can be rinsed out after use.

I run the steel pad back and forth along the entire length of the blade. Depending on the amount of rust – even surface rust – and how far you want to go with the restoration, this can be a time intensive task. Thankfully, with this knife, it didn’t take too long.

Step 2: Putting on the Edge

This part was a little more difficult. Upon close inspection it was unclear what kind of bevel was on the edge. It went all over the place, looking like some sort of grinding wheel had been used. For the original owners, the goal was to make it sharp enough to do the job. My goal was to put on some kind of lasting edge, to do this knife justice.

For this task I used a Smith’s Pack Pal Dual Grit Diamond Stone Sharpener. I really like this tool, as it has both a coarse (yellow) side and a fine (orange) side. I started with the coarse side, to put the initial edge on the blade. I had no idea what kind of steel I was working with, so I was really surprised at how quickly the blade took the edge.

Satisfied with the rough edge, I started doing some work with the fine side of the sharpener. It didn’t take long to put a very sharp edge on the blade; one that I was proud of. 

As good as the edge was, I wanted to do some finish work on a whetstone. Call me “old school”, but there is just something about doing finish work with an oiled whetstone that makes all the difference. It didn’t take much to make the blade extremely sharp. 

Now I was ready to give it back to Stan. 

True Historical Character

While working on the knife, I made it a point to leave some of the rust on the blade, especially near the handle. Why? Because I figured the rust gave the knife true historical character. 

I pretty much left the handle alone, because the wood was full of sweat and grime of times gone past. I like to think that the original owner would be happy with what I did with their knife. K&G

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Your Backup Knives Don’t Have to Break the Bank

Story and Photos by Dana Benner

There are a lot of different knives out there – in many varied styles, from a large field of manufacturers. 

Like everything else, knives come in a variety of price ranges. You can pick up a knife at the local truck for $10.00 or you can purchase a hand-crafted blade for thousands of dollars. Which one would suit you better? Well, that all depends on your budget and what your intentions are for the knife.

What Are You Looking For?

Let me start by saying that none of the knives mentioned here are what I would consider my first choice for my primary blade, especially in regard to a survival knife. 

If you are looking for a tough bush knife, that will see constant use, then I would go for a hand-crafted or high-quality production knife – like the ones put out by L.T. Wright, TOPS Knives or any of the other high quality knife makers. 

If the knife is to be your emergency knife – the one that stays in your pack, clipped to your PFD, in your vehicle or in your pocket – then you can go for some of the less expensive blades available, and the knives mentioned here all fit that bill. 

There are many inexpensive knives out there, but I tend to lean towards those put out by SOG and Gerber. Despite my opinion about certain knives, the brand of knife is not as important as whether or not it is the right one for you. Only you can make that decision.

The Difference between “Cheap” and “Inexpensive”

All too often we use the words “cheap” and “inexpensive” interchangeably, but they really aren’t. They mean two entirely different things. 

“Cheap” knives are the ones you find being sold in gift shops, gas stations, flea markets and discount stores. They are often dull, made from inferior steel and just aren’t made to last. 

“‘Inexpensive’ knives are those made by some very reputable knife makers and are constructed of good steel.”

I am often asked by people to sharpen their knives, only to be presented with one of these cheap blades. It usually takes me a while to put an edge on them, knowing full well it will not last. I wouldn’t stake my life on them and neither should you.

“Inexpensive” knives are those made by some very reputable knife makers and are constructed of good steel. They can be readily sharpened and will hold an edge reasonably well. Price wise they generally fall in that $30.00 to $40.00 range. 

Stay away from those $10.00 knives, as you get what you pay for.

My Recommendations

For this article I looked at about ten knives and, after testing, came up with five that I would own. Those five knives include two from SOG and three from Gerber – with three being folders and two being fixed blades. 

Despite their relatively low prices, they are knives that I would carry.

Fixed or Folding

I have a passion for fixed blade knives. With that said, there are some really good folders out there. So, when asked which is best, I always answer “What works for you?” 

It is like asking 100 fishermen “what lure works the best?” I guarantee you will get 100 different answers. Stick to what you feel the most comfortable with. 

What follows are the knives that I really liked.

SOG AEGIS FLK

The AEGIS FLK is a moderately sized folder, with an overall length of 7.8 inches and a weight of 5.1 ounces. The blade is made from 8R13MOV stainless steel and measures 3.38 inches. 

Its weight makes it heavy in the pocket but is well worth the load. If you find it too cumbersome, it makes a great addition to your day pack as well.

SOG Cash Card

I really like this knife. Its overall length is 6.2 inches and it weighs 2.0 ounces. The blade is made from 8CR13MOV-RC 54-58 stainless steel and it measures 2.75 inches. 

The slim design and lightweight skeleton make it very comfortable to carry in your pocket.

Gerber Sharkbelly-Serrated

I really this knife. It is light, weighing 2.3 ounces, so you hardly feel that you are carrying it. It has an overall length of 7.25 inches, with a blade length of 3.25 inches. The blade has a sheepsfoot drop point and is made from 420HC steel. 

A backlock keeps the blade in place when open and the handle is very comfortable during use. 

Gerber Spine

The Spine is a fixed blade knife that is great for the beginning outdoorsperson or the experienced woodsperson looking for a back-up blade. 

It measures 5.4 inches overall and has a blade length of 3.7 inches. Overall weight is 6.6 ounces. Blade material is 7Cr17MoV steel and has a full tang for strength and rubberized grip for secure all weather use. 

Gerber Tri-Tip

The Tri-Tip is a cool little knife – part cleaver and part skinner – that is extremely sharp and holds an edge well. 

It weighs in at 3 ounces and measures 5.5 inches overall. The blade has a cutting edge of 3 inches and is made from 7CR17MOV steel. The Tri-Tip has a full tang for strength and machined aluminum handle scales. 

Inexpensive but not Cheap

As most people who know me realize, I consider knives to be tools; tools that make my life easier. Ninety percent of the time I carry at least one knife, but it is usually more. 

“Remember, these are back-up knives, and inexpensive knives fit the need just fine. “

When kayaking or canoeing you’ll always find a knife on my PFD – just in case. Likewise, there is always an extra knife in my pack and one in my truck. Most of the time these extra knives are not needed, but it is good to know that they are there, if ever the need should arise. 

While I always want these knives to be of good quality, there is no need for them to be the very best available. Remember, these are back-up knives, and inexpensive knives fit the need just fine. 

But, don’t cheap out as your life could depend on it. K&G

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Specs

SOG AEGIS FLK
Blade Material: 8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel
Blade Length: 3.38″
Closed Length: 4.60″
Overall Length: 7.90″
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Weight: 5.1 ounces
Frame/Handle Material: Stainless Steel
Locking Mechanism: Frame Lock
MSRP: $34.95

SOG Cash Card
Blade Material: 8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel
Blade Length: 2.75 inches
Closed Length: 3.375
Overall Length: 6.125
Blade Finish: Satin
Weight: 2.0 ounces
Frame/Handle Material: Stainless Steel
Locking Mechanism: Liner Lock
MSRP: $34.95

Gerber Sharkbelly – Serrated
Blade Material: 420HC Stainless Steel
Blade Length: 3.25 inches
Overall Length: 7.87
Weight: 2.3 ounces
Frame/Handle Material: Glass Filled Nylon
Locking Mechanism: Lockback
MSRP: $34.00

Gerber Spine
Blade Material: 7Cr17MoV Stainless Steel
Blade Length: 3.7 inches
Overall Length: 8.4 inches
Weight: 6.6 ounces
Handle Material: Textured Rubber
MSRP: $38.00

Gerber Tri-Tip
Blade Material: 7Cr17MoV Stainless Steel
Blade Length: 3 inches
Overall Length: 5.5 inches
Weight: 3 ounces
Handle Material: Machined Aluminum
MSRP: $36.00

Contact

SOG
(425) 771-6230
www.SogKnives.com

Gerber
(800) 950-6161
www.GerberGear.com

Availability

SOG AEGIS FLK
SOG
KnifeCenter
Smokey Mountain Knife Works

SOG Cash Card
SOG
Blade HQ
KnifeCenter
Smokey Mountain Knife Works

Gerber Sharkbelly – Serrated
Gerber
Smokey Mountain Knife Works

Gerber Spine
Gerber
Blade HQ
KnifeCenter
Smokey Mountain Knife Works

Gerber Tri-Tip
Gerber
Blade HQ
KnifeCenter
Smokey Mountain Knife Works

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The Right Knife Can Make a Big Difference in the Heart of the Home

Story by Dana Benner, Photos by Dana Benner and Manufacturers

All too often writers put together articles that deal with blades needed for survival. I know, as I am one of those writers. 

But when we look at the big picture, the heart of every homestead is the kitchen. It doesn’t matter whether the homestead is in the middle of the woods or in the heart of the city – the kitchen is where it all happens.

“…the heart of every homestead is the kitchen.”

Such an important place needs to have good tools to allow it to function properly. The soul of my kitchen is my knives. Without good knives, the magic of the kitchen wouldn’t happen (not as smoothly at least). What and how many knives are needed? This is a good question.

I have traveled and learned from chefs in New Orleans (The New Orleans School of Cooking), Key West (Smokin’ Tuna), as well as a host of other places, and the one thing I noticed is that all of the chefs had certain knives that they always used. This was even in kitchens full of knives. So, to answer the question, it is not about the number of knives, but the quality and your ability to use the knives that you have.

Like all tools – yes, I consider knives as tools – there are some that are designed for a specific purpose and some that fulfill multiple jobs. 

For ease, I like knives that have multiple functions. I have six knives that I use constantly; they are, in no particular order: bread knife, chef knife, prep knife, paring knife, santoku and an ulu.

Bread Knife

Who doesn’t like fresh bread? If I can help it, there is no pre-sliced bread for me. The thing about bread is, without the right knife you are likely to make a mess of it when you slice it.

Bread knives usually have long, relatively thin blades that have a series of scalloped serrations running the length on one side. The tip of the blade is rounded, as there is no need to stab a loaf of bread. The length of the blade and the serrations make for clean, easy cuts.

My bread knife is an old timer made by Ekco. It measures 14 inches long and has a 9-inch cutting blade, made in the U.S. from stainless steel. Unlike many modern kitchen knives, this knife has a hardwood handle. I bought this knife about 40 years ago and it can no longer be found, unless you look on vintage websites. Despite its age, this knife is still going strong.

You can find bread knives in many different stores. Inexpensive ones can be found at most chain department stores, while really good ones are available in cooking specialty stores.

MSRP: $5.00-$70.00 depending on its quality and where you purchase it.

Chef Knife

The chef knife is the mainstay of every good kitchen and is a thick, heavy knife. 

The spine is usually thick near the handle and tapers as it nears the tip, which is pointed. These knives are designed for heavy duty chopping and slicing – but when used properly, the thinner tip can perform some very sensitive cuts. 

“These knives are designed for heavy duty chopping and slicing…”

I use this knife a great deal for chopping vegetables, cutting through thick skinned squash (winter squashes and pumpkins) or breaking through the breastbone of a turkey or goose. I have two chef knives that I really like – the first is the knife that I have had for about 30 years and the second is new. 

They are the Calphalon 8-inch Chef’s Knife and the L.T. Wright Camp Kitchen.

Calphalon 8-Inch

Over the years I have used this knife for everything from slicing onions to cutting stew meat. It is forged from high carbon, no stain, German steel. 

Overall length is 13 inches, with an 8-inch cutting edge. This knife has full tang construction and – combined with its heavy weight – allows you to cut through good sized roasts or finely mince garlic.

MSRP: See specs below

Camp Kitchen

Like all knives made by L.T. Wright Knives, the Camp Kitchen is created using stock removal. This knife measures 12 inches and has a sharpened edge of 7.5 inches. 

It is forged with AEB-L high carbon steel and has a flat grind. The micarta handle features thumb scallops, which allows for a better grip – a feature I really like. Like with any good chef knife, the Camp Kitchen chops and slices equally with ease.

MSRP: See specs below

Prep Knife

Of all the knives I have in my kitchen, my prep knife sees the most use. It is the knife I use to de-bone chickens, turkeys, pheasant and duck. It is also the knife I use to remove excess fat and skin from red meat. A good prep knife needs to be sharp and have a fairly heavy blade, enabling it to cut through the breastbone of a bird, yet light enough to fillet a fish.

My prep knife is the Large Pouter made by L.T. Wright Knives. 

The Large Pouter is a medium sized knife that measures 9 inches long and has a sharpened edge of 5 inches. The blade is made of AEB-L high carbon steel and has a flat grind. The Large Pouter is heavy enough to tackle tough jobs, but light enough for intricate cuts.

MSRP: See specs below

Paring Knife

For peeling potatoes, apples, squash and just about anything else, the paring knife is the tool for the job. It is also handy for starting orange peels for my granddaughters and opening bags of rice. 

Paring knives are the “kitchen utility knives.” Small and light, the paring knife handles those jobs that aren’t practical for the larger blades.

I have a few paring knives, some being better than others. My favorite is the Small Pouter made by L.T. Wright Knives. Like the Large Pouter, the Small Pouter is made of AEB-L high carbon steel and it has a flat grind. Overall length is 6.75 inches with a 3-inch sharpened edge.

MSRP: See specs below

Ulu

Of all my knives, the ulu gets the most comments, as it is not your “typical” knife in the Lower 48. If you travel north to the area around the Arctic Circle, you will find the ulu being the preferred knife of the Native people, who call this area home. 

The semi-circular blade, which is located directly below the handle, makes this knife very easy to use and perfect for all types of food preparation. I like the ulu for thin slices I get when I am making jerky – but it is equally at home chopping vegetables or slicing a roast.

My ulu was made by my friend Mike Moore, “The Ulu Maker” in Soldotna, Alaska. It has a 5-inch blade, made of tool grade high carbon steel and the handle is made from caribou antler. Mike no longer makes ulus due to health reasons, but there are some really good ulu makers in Alaska. 

Stay away from the tourist blades sold in the gift shops. Find a quality knife maker and get a real ulu.

MSRP: $50.00-$100.00

Santoku Knife

While I use my Chef knife for chopping, I often find myself using my Santoku for preparing thick skinned squash and even de-boning a turkey. It is lighter than the traditional Chef knife, yet tough enough for some light chopping. Santoku knives come in various sizes, but mine has a 5-inch blade. The Santoku is based on a Japanese design and is made to slice and chop. 

The Santoku I use is made by Calphalon, of high-quality, high carbon, no stain German steel and features a full tang. It has an overall length of 10 inches and a 5-inch sharpened edge.

MSRP: See specs below

To the Kitchen

After a hard day of working in the fields, hunting the forests or fishing the streams, all of us want to come back to the warm welcoming safety of the good old homestead. 

Once the gear is shed and the gun is put away, we grab a cold beverage and head for the kitchen. Admit it, we all do it. But the last place we want a struggle is in the kitchen – preparing a soul heartening meal is made a great deal easier with good sharp knives.

The knives I’ve described here are what I consider “must haves” in the kitchen. The models I use may, or may not, fit all of your needs – we all have different tastes and styles. That is ok, as it is not the knife but the person using it, that makes all of the difference. K&G

Do you have any knives or knife styles that you like to use in your homestead kitchen? Join the conversation, comment on this story below. >>

Specs

Calphalon 8-Inch Chef Knife

Blade Material: High carbon, no stain German steel
Blade Length: 8 inches
Overall Length: 13 inches
Handle Material: Poly-resin
MSRP: $56.99

L.T. Wright Camp Kitchen

Blade Material: AEB-L
Blade Length: 7.5 inches
Overall Length: 12 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.125 inch
Blade Grind: Flat
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: $200.00

L.T. Wright Large Pouter

Blade Material: AEB-L
Blade Length: 5 inches
Overall Length: 9 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.093 inch
Blade Grind: Flat
Weight: 2 ounces
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: $119.00

L.T. Wright Small Pouter

Blade Material: AEB-L
Blade Length: 3 inches
Overall Length: 6.75 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.093 inch
Blade Grind: Flat
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: $96.00

Calphalon Santoku

Blade Material: High carbon, no stain German steel
Blade Length: 5 inches
Overall Length: 10 inches
Handle Material: Poly-resin
MSRP: $31.99

Contact

L.T. Wright Knives
(740) 317-1404
www.LTWrightKnives.com

Calphalon Knives
(800) 809-7267
www.Calphalon.com/en-US

Availability

L.T. Wright Knives
Calphalon Knives

The post The Homesteading Kitchen appeared first on Knife & Gear Society.

Knives Play a Major Role in Forging Your Own Way, So Knife Selection is Important for Success

Story by Dana Benner, Photos by Dana Benner and Manufacturers

The world is full of “things” for the homesteader. Some of them are actually useful; others are just made to make you believe that you need them. One thing that is certain, blades of many types are essential for life on the homestead. You can do without many things, but a good knife (or knives) is not among them.

There are many really good knives out there and this piece is not about saying one knife manufacturer is better than another. Instead, it is about giving you, the reader, a good idea of the types of knives you should have on hand on any homestead. 

Will I cover every possible knife available? No. Will you agree with all of the choices that I suggest? No. Will I leave out some knife styles that you think are important? Yes, I will. This article is only a guideline, based on my experiences. You will have your own experiences to draw upon, and you should decide which knife styles and brands are best for you, based on those experiences.

“You can do without many things, but a good knife (or knives) is not among them.”

No one knows everything, but a smart person always asks for the advice of someone they respect and that knows much more than they do. Before starting this endeavor – despite my currently held beliefs – I decided to ask an expert in the business of knives; L.T. Wright. 

L.T. is a Master knife maker and the owner of L.T. Wright Knives. The bladesmiths at L.T. Wright knives craft some of the best blades in the business and, because I own many of them, I opted to turn to him for help. L.T. quickly recommended a few must have blades: a machete, a heavy-duty kitchen knife, an EDC knife and a good belt knife. 

What follows are the blades that I use on a daily basis – starting with the pocketknife.

Pocket Knife

No self-respecting woodsperson, homesteader or survivalist would ever be caught dead without a pocketknife of some sort. Pocket knives run the gamut from simple to elaborate and there is a perfect one for everybody.

My first pocketknife was given to me by my father when I was about nine years old. It was not expensive, but it was mine. My father taught me the importance of that knife and the responsibility that came with owning it; or any knife. Today I carry a Swiss Army knife – complete with all of the gadgets.

“The versatility of a pocketknife makes it one of the most valuable tools you will have around the homestead.”

Over the years I have used pocketknives to carve wooden animals for my daughter, strip the plastic coating off electrical wire and make feather sticks at the campsite. I’ve also been known to open that rogue bottle of adult beverage from time to time. 

The versatility of a pocketknife makes it one of the most valuable tools you will have around the homestead. The brand is not important, and the price shouldn’t be an issue. The less expensive pocketknives will work just as well as the high-end brands. You can get a good pocket-knife for around $10 – $30. Although they can run a little higher if you select something with many different features and functions or opt for a multitool instead.

Machete

Anyone who has had to clear brush from around the homestead knows the value of a good machete. 

As a kid I worked with my father, clearing areas of property, and the tool I was given was an old French-made machete that was common military issue to French troops operating in Asia during WWII and into Vietnam. I still own that machete and it is still going strong, but now I find myself leaning on one made by L.T. Wright, called the Overland Machete.

The Overland Machete has an overall length of 19 inches and a sharpened edge that measures 12 inches. The steel is 3/32 inches of 1075 high carbon steel, with a convex grind. The blade has a 2-stage patina, that helps to prevent rust and aids in the sharpening process. 

Last, but not least, the handle is made of micarta and there is an optional Kydex sheath. 

Heavy Duty Kitchen Knife

A heavy-duty kitchen knife is essential for preparing that roast, cutting up ribs, de-boning a turkey and even cutting vegetables. There are many kitchen knives out on the market, at various prices, offering something for everyone. The key is to find the one that works best for you and you feel most comfortable with.

My everyday kitchen knife is the Large Pouter, from L.T. Wright Knives. It is perfect for deboning all sorts of meat, making thin slices, butterflying fish and chopping. 

The large Pouter measures 9 inches long, with a 5-inch cutting edge. The blade is made from Austrian AEB-L high carbon steel, with a flat grind, sharpened to a razor’s edge. The handle scales come in a few different colors, but mine has green micarta. 

EDC Knife

Your everyday carry knife (EDC) has to have many attributes. It has to be light enough to carry all day and it needs to fit the pocket comfortably (in other words you don’t want to feel it jabbing you as you walk or sit). It also needs to be small enough to conceal (if needed), and unassuming if worn in the open – you don’t want it to draw too much attention. Finally, it has to be strong enough to handle a large variety of tasks. 

That is a great deal to ask of any knife and the Next Gen is one knife ready for the challenge.

The Next Gen, made by L.T. Wright Knives, is a fixed blade with an overall length of 7.5 inches and a sharpened edge that measures 3 inches. It is made of A2 steel and has a flat grind that is sharpened to a razor’s edge. The Next Gen comes with either green or black micarta handle scales; mine has green.

My Next Gen stays with me at all times (except in places where I can’t carry any type of weapon). I have used it for everything from cleaning fish and skinning small game to cutting rope and opening packages for my wife. 

It keeps an edge no matter what I ask of it, requiring only minor swipes on the stone occasionally. 

Belt Knife

My first contact with L.T. Wright came when I was looking for a good, high quality “bush” knife. I wanted a knife that would stand up to heavy punishment and keep on going. I looked at many knives, but the knife I liked the most was the JX2 Jessmuk – which was designed by Chris Tanner and made by L.T. Wright Knives. 

I haven’t looked back since.

The Jessmuk’s design takes the best features of the ulu and combines it with a traditional straight blade knife. The curved sweeping blade makes the Jessmuk an excellent slicer, while the blade being forward of the handle makes it perfect for making feather sticks, tent stakes and batoning. Its sharpened spine allows you to debark tree limbs, scrape tinder bundles and ignite a ferro rod as well.

The Jessmuk has an overall length of 9.5 inches and a sharpened edge that measures 4.5 inches. It is made from 01 tool steel and features a scandi grind. The micarta handle and exceptional balance make this knife feel good in the hand. 

Find What Fits Your Needs

These are the knives that I consider to be must haves for the homesteader. Are there others? You bet. There are many great knife makers out there. Do I own other knives, from other makers? Yes, I do, but these are the ones I rely on most of the time. 

“The most important thing is to find knives that fit your need and you have confidence in.”

I happen to like and own the knives I discussed here, but you may have other ideas of what would work best for you. As I mentioned earlier, this is more of a guideline to start you in the right direction and make you aware of the different knife styles that you should have on hand when homesteading. 

The most important thing is to find knives that fit your need and you have confidence in. Happy homesteading. K&G

Do you have any knives or knife styles that you like to use for homesteading? Join the conversation, comment on this story below. >>

Specs

L.T. Wright Overlander Machete

Blade Material: 1075 Carbon Steel
Blade Length: 12.25 inches
Overall Length: 18.75 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.09 inches
Blade Grind: Convex Edge
Weight: 19.5 ounces
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: Starting at $155.00 with sheath

L.T. Wright Large Pouter

Blade Material: AEB-L
Blade Length: 5 inches
Overall Length: 9 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.093 inch
Blade Grind: Flat
Weight: 2 ounces
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: $119.00

L.T. Wright Next Gen

Blade Material: A2
Blade Length: 3 inches
Overall Length: 7.5 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.125 inch
Blade Grind: Full Flat
Weight: 2 ounces
Handle Material: Natural Micarta
MSRP: $135.00

L.T. Wright JX2 Jessmuck

Blade Material: 01 Tool Steel
Blade Length: 4.5 inches
Overall Length: 9.5 inches
Blade Thickness: 0.125 inch
Blade Grind: Scandi
Weight: 5 ounces
Handle Material: Black Micarta
MSRP: starting at $235.00 with sheath

Contact

L.T. Wright Knives
(740) 317-1404
www.LTWrightKnives.com

Availability

L.T. Wright Knives
Blade HQ
Knife Center

The post The Homesteading Edge appeared first on Knife & Gear Society.